Sidi Bou Said on the top of the hill

The village of Sidi Bou Said, on top of a hill, stands out from all over Tunisia for its whitewashed walls with turquoise doors and windows and an imposing view over the Gulf of Tunis, which is well worth the effort of climbing through cobbled streets full of merchants waiting for tourists to present jewelry, perfume bottles, and aromatic oils. It looks like a Greece I haven’t visited yet. No doubt a place not to be missed on a visit to Tunisia.

Sidi Bou Said was named after a Sufism, Sidi Bou Said (1156-1231), who ended up staying there on his return from the pilgrimage to Mecca. The village, formerly known as Jebel el-Manar, then became a Sufi center attracting pilgrims from all over Tunisia. Although today there are no more processions to the Sufi saint’s tomb, the grave and mosque are still visited by the Muslim faithful.

Sidi Chabaane Cafe, also known as Café des Delices, is perhaps the best café in Sidi Bou Said overlooking the whole village and gulf of Tunis. Don’t miss a visit and try a glass of mint tea and the traditional pine kernel, but watch out, although I didn’t notice then, there are now several reports in TripAdvisor that prices are over-inflated.

The best time to visit may be at the beginning of the day or at the end of the day as with the constant arrival and departure of excursions, tourists can easily fill the space. When I was there, it was so easy to lose track of time with that immense view over the Gulf that the return was rushed through alleys full of tourists on tour or shopping, and yet I was the last to get into the tour van… But it was worth the effort, even with the scolding by the guide of the excursion.